The area around Fort Sam Houston in San Antonio is kind of like our own Koreatown. Many ex-military men settled around Fort Sam, and the area reflects that with its hodgepodge of Korean churches, grocery stores and restaurants.

Sunny Lee and his wife, both natives of Korea, run the Texas Brisket Bar-B-Q restaurant, which at first glance seems like a typical, generically  named Texas barbecue joint, reflected by their menu: brisket, sausage, pork ribs, chicken and the like. The menu item that transcends all of these, however, is the phenomenal Korean BBQ Kalbi, which are barbecue beef short ribs. Slightly sweet and sticky, the finely sliced beef (1/8 of an inch thick) is carefully prepared with a secret marinade recipe, which varies from Korean family to family, and may include soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic and fruit juices. The ribs are then barbecued by Sunny. His wife makes the kimchi (fermented Korean cabbage) about every other week, which accompanies the ribs. It also comes with steamed rice and two sides. The kimchi’s slight brine and spice (from dried chili peppers) compliment the ultra-tender meat.

It’s such deliciously tasty and highly flavorful meat, that it tempts me to abandon my table manners and lick my fingers in public. This is without a doubt one of the best ethnic barbecue meals in town. It’s also the only one you’ll eat with chopsticks.

Lastly, you’ve been delightfully forewarned, as the menu states: “All plate portions will be TEXAS sized.”

Texas Brisket Bar-B-Q

2456 Harry Wurzbach Road

San Antonio, TX 78209